The Bavarians

burned Schwaz

BUT: A BAYER SAVED THE PARISH CHURCH...

"FIRE", "HELP", "IT'S BURNING!", "SAVE YOURSELVES WHO CAN!", "CHILDREN, SHOUT!", "LORD GOD HELP!", "LOOK - NOW THE NEXT HOUSE IS ON FIRE", - the drama must have been indescribable on that fateful 15th May. Around 4 p.m., the first columns of smoke rose above Schwaz, and on May 17, the town was a single, gigantic fire ruin. During the night, the glow of the fire over Schwaz and Vomp could be seen as far away as Munich. 304 buildings (including the Tannenberg Palace, the Bergdirektoratsgebäude, the new school building, the Bürgerspital), two churches (Spitalkirche and Bruderhauskirche), 97 barns and livestock stables, the meat bank, six grain stores and a malt kiln, a total of 411 structures, fell victim to the fire. Two important objects were spared from the firestorm: the Franciscan monastery - the hell of flames had already approached the monastery walls, then suddenly the wind turned (which was considered a "miracle" at that time) - and the parish church of the Assumption of Mary. It was - listen and be amazed - a Bavarian, that is, one of the arsonist enemies, who saved this unique building. The flames had already reached the passage from the (burning) Palais Enzenberg ("Count's Arch") into the parish church. Said soldier extinguished the still small source of fire - the church was spared.

Schwazer Altstadt

BAVARIA?
It WAS THE

.

Troops of Napoleon,

THEY OVERROWNED EUROPE AND
SCRIPTED AND DESTROYED
.

True! - But the neighbors of the Tyroleans, actually they were - as descendants of the Bavarians - even tribal brothers - had become federal brothers of Napoleon and had been princely rewarded for it. Austria, England and Russia had suffered a heavy defeat at the Battle of Austerlitz against Napoleon's troops in 1805. At the Peace of Pressburg, Tyrol and Vorarlberg fell to Bavaria, which had joined Napoleon due to French pressure and at that time became a kingdom. And so the Bavarian flag also flew in Tyrol from 1806 to 1814 (except for the months in 1809 when the enemies were thrown out of the country). The occupiers subsequently began to implement a series of unpopular reforms. Traditional self-government was abolished (even the name "Tyrol" disappeared), the central government banned traditional customs, introduced universal conscription, and Tyrolean recruits were also to be drafted for Napoleon's armies. In short, the fuse was lit for the following wars of liberation. All the more so, as the Tyroleans had not treated the enemies of the time lightly in earlier campaigns of arms and incursions into Bavaria, and mutual hatred was therefore great.

Back to the fateful days of May 1809, when General Wrede and an army of 12,000 to 15,000 men (of which at least 4,000 were cavalry) marched through the Lower Inn Valley towards Schwaz, plundering. There the invaders met fierce resistance. Dr. Hans Seewald ("Der Brand von Schwaz") describes the dramatic hours: "Three times the Bavarians stormed through the main street of the village of Schwaz to the Lahnbach position near the parish church, but just as often they had to turn back. Every house seemed to be turned into a small citadel, the windows were the embrasures from which they fired, and from the roofs rained a hail of stones. Only a fourth onslaught let Wrede become master of the market. (...) While Wrede was having a victory banquet with his officers in the Schnapper inn in the village, his soldiers, embittered by the fierce resistance and the great losses, began a looting of rarely seen proportions. The Bavarians roamed through all the alleys, entered all the houses, searched all the inhabitants from head to foot, tore off the clothes they liked. They raged in the Tannenberg palace as well as in the miserable and scanty miners' huts. Wherever a girl fell into the hands of the Bavarians, she was maltreated. Many who resisted or tried to escape were completely stripped and chased naked like fair game through the alleys of the market. Numerous women and girls were violated in broad daylight in the middle of the alleys and squares, and over a hundred girls were dragged to the Bavarian camp in Vomp and raped there." It should be noted that Wrede had taken a ransom of several thousand guilders from Count Tannenberg and had promised to spare the market in return. Obviously, Wrede never thought about sparing, because Bavarian soldiers later told that they had strict orders to set the place on fire. The consequences of the fire are reflected in the population development. In 1808 the market town of Schwaz had 7500 inhabitants, in 1810 only 3869. In the statistics of 1828 only 3008 inhabitants appear. Gottlob - the times have changed, Bavarians and Tyroleans have long been good friends again...

The fire of 1809 survived according to Seewald in the former business and trade quarter only to the 15 houses undamaged. And - this brings us back to the beginning - the parish church.

Schwazer Pfarrkirche

It is the largest Gothic hall church in Tyrol. Klotzen, not kleckern was announced at the time of construction, Schwaz was yes at the height of mining not only the largest place in Tyrol (about 20,000 inhabitants), but also the second largest in today's Austria. Innsbruck, already the provincial capital at that time, had a measly 5000 inhabitants.

The special architecture of the church goes back to the population explosion at that time. The three-aisle hall church built in the years from 1460 to 1478 under the direction of Hans Mitterhofer and his son Gilg proved to be far too small after only a few years, and so the decision to enlarge it was made as early as 1490. The Munich architect and sculptor Erasmus Grasser had the brilliant idea of adding an equally large nave to the main nave, which - together with the two side naves - resulted in the aforementioned four naves. In addition, the Mitterhofer church was extended by two bays. The two naves were not only an architectural feature - they also corresponded to the social structure of the village at that time: there was no unified municipal administration, but the miners, subordinate to a mining judge, and the citizens, not working in the mine, subordinate to the land judge. The northern nave was reserved for the citizens, the southern choir for the miners. Apparently, both groups were not particularly green to each other even in the church - namely, along the middle row of columns a 1.5 meter high wooden partition wall was installed. The wooden wall has long since been removed, and - unfortunately - so has the Gothic, 18-meter-high high altar by the Nuremberg artist Veith Stoß, which today would definitely be a world cultural heritage site. The people of Schwaz had paid him 1166 gulden in cash. It fell victim to the baroqueization of the church. At the beginning of the 20th century, the church was regotized again, from this time (1910) comes the neo-Gothic main altar.

If you enter the church through the main entrance on the impressive west façade, which closes off Franz-Josef-Strasse like a huge backdrop, the baptismal font made of Kramsach marble (1470) is the first eye-catcher. The baroque organ prospect, the remains of the gothic glass windows and the new ones by Prof. Fred Hochschwarzer (1914 to 1990), the side altars (the seated Madonna at the Firmian altar dates from the 15th century), the cross altar, the Fürstenchörl with the 14 coats of arms of the lands of Emperor Karl V., the epitaphs for Ulrich Fugger and Hans Dreyling, the marble tomb slabs for Christian Tänzl and Anna Hofer - there is much to see in the Schwaz parish church. On special occasions, it is possible to climb up into the five-story roof truss. An entire forest was felled for it near Telfs. And the church is covered with 15,000 copper plates. In the Schwaz tunnels - the network of tunnels is said to be 500 kilometers long in total - far more copper, namely 70 times as much, was mined than silver. Note: this copper load on the roof of the parish church weighs about 150 tons and - it should also be mentioned:

AlSO THE
2,657 GOLDEN
SHINDS OF THE

Golden Roof

.

INNSBRUCK
HAS A CORE
MADE OF BLACK COPPER.

Oh yes - and there are the two towers. The original tower overhangs one meter to the north, already in 1558 it was recorded that it is "damaged and shaken". Since the Central Commission in Vienna forbade ringing in 1904, a new tower was built at the eastern corner of the cemetery (today's Stadtpark) in 1910/1911, which now houses the ringing (including the famous "Maria Maximiliana", cast in 1503 by Peter Löffler, it is one of the largest historic bells in Tyrol).

A sacral gem is the two-story mortuary chapel in front of the parish church in the north. Above the rear doorway is inset a tablet from 1506 that reminds us of our transience. "Here we all lie equal, noble, knight poor and also rich," it reads. Toads, a lizard and a snake are carved out - as symbols of decay - in the stairway to the upper "Veitskapelle". In the chapel stands the altar, built in 1511, the most magnificent work of the late Gothic period that has survived in Schwaz. Creator was the Allgäu carver Christoph Scheller.

And another "annex" should be mentioned: the "Count's House", so the palace Enzenberg, to which - at an airy height - through the "Count's Arch" mentioned at the beginning of a direct access leads into the church or to the organ loft. Through this passage, built around 1520, the members of the Tänzl family of tradesmen, who owned the palace at that time, reached their prayer stool in the gallery without getting their feet wet. The speech is of that corridor, in which already first flame tongues blazed, which were extinguished by an enemy...

@ Peter Hörhager

Stadtführung im Dachstuhl