The oven liver
From feasting and celebrating
The OFENLEBER - THE WAY TONI KIRCHNER PREPARES IT AND LOVES IT HIMSELF -
IS PERFECT FOR THE CHRISTMAS HOLIDAYS. ALSO, BECAUSE
ITS RELATIVELY RASH PREPARED. BUT ABOVE ALL, BECAUSE SHE
SO HEARTFULLY SMELLS.
There are dishes whose scent already awakens joy when the nose is still far away from the place where it "sizzles". The tempting and invisible vapors are unstoppable. They penetrate even through perfectly sealed doors, enter the hallway and reach the street, where, like bearers of good news, they put a smile on the faces. At least for those to whom they may serve as signposts, because the promise of the fragrances will soon be fulfilled. Those who are not invited to the feast, have to master the desire otherwise or elsewhere. Tough luck.
It would be quite exciting to find out what happens when the scent of an oven-baked liver reaches the nose and triggers a pleasurable sense of well-being in the brain, even before fork or knife or palate came into play. This anticipation reaches not only the mouth, but above all the heart, because such an oven liver does not want to be enjoyed alone, but together with friends or in the circle of family. "My grandma has already made the oven liver. My dad loves it dearly," knows Christiane Kirchner, landlady at Gasthof Rieder in Jenbach. In the Zillertal, the oven liver is a traditional wedding food, in the Silver Region it is no less popular, and because the dish is unknown in other areas of the country, it can be assumed that this very special pleasure is a very regional.
Whoever invented it: In any case, the simple and traditional dish is perfect for a feast and holiday dinner that is doubly friendly to cook. Because of the culinary bliss afterwards. And the minimal amount of time beforehand. "If you have all the ingredients together, it goes really fast," says Toni Kirchner, innkeeper and chef at Gasthof Rieder. When professional chefs claim that, the healthy hobby chef's mind may quietly doubt for a moment. In the case, however, the doubts are festive dishes - and the amount of work is in no relation to the effect.
Who has potatoes, eggs, onion, hard rolls, garlic and flour at home, must actually only go to the butcher of his confidence and get a bunch of parsley on the way. And marjoram, should it not be next to salt and pepper in the spice drawer at home. "Maybe you should call ahead to make sure the butcher has a pig's liver, heart, lungs and a pig's net," advises Toni Kirchner in this regard to play it safe. All those who do not have a mincing machine at home should ask the master to mince liver, lungs, heart and fat pork. "Not on the finest level, it can be a bit coarser," says the chef. At the latest, the butcher already knows that it's an oven liver that's being planned, and so he knows how big the pork net needs to be, and possibly automatically cuts the thin slices of bacon with which the oven liver will later be gently covered. Carree or pancetta it should be, they may also be mixed.
A few handles
So heartily equipped and arrived at home only a few handles are necessary. Dice the large onion, soak the bread roll in warm water and squeeze firmly, grate the potato, chop the parsley - that's it. "Then mix everything together, add flour and the eggs and season the mixture with salt, pepper, marjoram and garlic. A square form grease, net purely, mass purely, bacon over it, net zua - and purely into the furnace", describes Toni Kirchner the procedure so briskly as aptly.
Whoever observes him at his craft of enjoyment quickly notices that he not only masters it, but is already looking forward to the oven liver while preparing it himself. "I really enjoy making the oven livers. We only have it on the daily menu because it's a dish that tastes really wonderful the day you make it," he knows.
How and why the heart and lungs "snuck" into his oven-baked liver, he's not sure himself. "That's how I learned to do it. My father also did it that way," Toni directs his gaze back and looks forward at the same time. To his son, the fifth Anton Kirchner, who is standing here in the kitchen with his father and, at 16 years old, leaves no doubt that he will continue the legacy of the cooking Kirchners at Gasthof Rieder - so close to the Inn Valley and yet so far from any hustle and bustle. "I'll finish tourism school, then I'll go home, and then I'll be the boss," he smiles, and when asked what he prefers to cook, he says, "Something like dad. More traditional." Mom Christiane Kirchner herself has to grin at the thought that her son never had any other career aspirations and that it was always clear to him that he would become a chef. Not just anywhere, but here, in Fischl. "Dahoam," in other words.
Better longer than too short
While they tell so of the inn and the traditions in the family business, the smell slowly becomes beguiling. "The oven liver is ready after about an hour at 180 degrees. The higher the mold, the longer it takes, and it's always better to leave it in for ten minutes longer than ten minutes too short," Toni knows. If you want to play it safe, you can take the roast thermometer to help and "redeem" friends or family when the core temperature reaches 80 degrees. Perhaps it succeeded to hold them before with a Tafelspitz or ham aspic quietly. Because the oven-baked liver is hearty after all, Toni Kirchner advises a light starter. He accompanies the oven-baked liver itself with parsley potatoes and serves it with a gravy that the prudent cook has set aside after the last roast and frozen in the knowledge of the celebratory oven-baked liver. "For dessert, a stuffed baked apple with vanilla sauce is perfect," Toni Kirchner says, still with a sense of Christmas flavors. Arriving at the apple, the holiday and festive guests are not only grateful for the beautiful menu. No, they also send a little push prayer towards heaven. Because the tantalizing aroma was a signpost for them. And they to the lucky
INGREDIENTS FOR 6 PERSONS:
- 500 grams of pork liver
- 150 grams of pork lungs and heart .
- 150 grams of fat minced pork
- 1 large onion
- 2 potatoes
- 4 dry rolls
- 2 eggs
- 3 tablespoons flour
- 1 pork net (tell the butcher what for)
- 20 slices of carree or pancetta (or mixed)
- 3-4 cloves of garlic (depending on taste)
- 1 bunch parsley
- Salt, pepper, marjoram .
Liver lung and heart mince, chop onion, grate potatoes, chop parsley, soak the bread roll in warm water and squeeze well. Then mix the minced meat (also the fat pork mince) with the ingredients, add the eggs, put in the flour, press the garlic, season everything and knead well.
Line the ovenproof loaf pan with the pork net and pour in the mixture, which is then covered with the bacon strips and "closed" with the pork net. Bake or simmer in the preheated oven at 180 degrees for just under an hour. A few minutes more won't hurt; but a few minutes too little will. At a core temperature of 80 degrees, the oven liver is ready.
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