IT WAS ALSO THE BEER THAT LOCKED SEBASTIAN GOLLNER INTO "THE MARSHALL" TO STANS. THE NEW RESTAURANT CHEF IS A BAVARIAN BY BIRTH. WHAT CAN STANk?
As dangerous as they can be, in some cases generalizations have a special wit. Italians are considered epicureans in every sense of the word, Tyroleans are assumed to be good skiers, and true Bavarians are expected to be beer experts. "When I drank Marschall beer for the first time, I immediately noticed that it was a good beer, nicely drinkable, which is to my advantage as a Bavarian. It's not too tart, not too cloying, and its hoppiness and underlying sweetness make it an ideal companion for game or steak. With beef tenderloin, which is relatively rich in iron, this sweetness is an excellent support. It's a perfect match," says Sebastian Gollner briskly, confirming how true it is, the generalization about Bavarians and beer. Underpinned by the typical Bavarian-Guttural pronunciation, no one dares to doubt his expertise. This, in turn, is very much to the advantage of Gasthof Marschall in Stans, where Gollner has been working as restaurant manager since September 2016 and feels completely at home there - especially with one of the house's main focuses: beer. "I'm half Bavarian, half Italian. Wine is my hobby. Beer is my passion. I drink beer with everything because it goes with everything," he says. What it generally goes best with is conveniently on the Marschall's menu, making the concoction of "Tyrol's beeriest inn" a well-rounded affair. And drinkable. And tasty. And tempting to squat. What he says is true. The Marschall beer is drinkable. It tastes different from the others, but not too different. In any case, it invites you to drink another one. Such bumpy descriptions would draw a snort in the wine world. The beer world is different. You don't sip, you drink, and it's easier to try something new. Probably also because a glass of beer doesn't lighten the wallet as much as a bottle of wine. "We have about 30 different types of beer on offer at the moment," says Gollner. "At the tastings, you can take a little round trip through the world of beer." A round trip through the world of "craft beers," which also includes the in-house Marschall beer.
CRAFT BEER FUN
The term craft beer says it all. Americans set the trend by starting to make beer in small, private breweries about 20 to 25 years ago to have an alternative to the zero-eight-fifteen light beers common "overseas." Soon, the more spoiled Europeans in this regard followed suit, adding numerous new varieties to the beery palette. "Our Marschall beer is brewed by the Zillertal Brewery. It is a naturally cloudy, amber-colored and spicy draft beer. The hops come from Austria and the barley is an old Tyrolean variety that is being replanted," explains the restaurant manager, who appreciates regionality as well as short distances, noting, "It is constantly brewed and is always fresh."
Whoever comes to the Marschall and orders - classically - "a beer" is made aware that there is not just one. "Often it's a matter of raising awareness. Only when you focus on that can you find out the nuances of taste," the boss knows. It's always exciting when someone tries a beer that doesn't have the mass-produced one-size-fits-all taste. "It's nice to show people that," says Gollner: "If you always drink the same beer, then you certainly won't like the first sip. Then you drink the second, then the third, and by the fourth sip you're open and realize what a difference it is."
To ALL beer; BECAUSE IT FITS EVERYTHING."
Sebastian Gollner, Restaurant Manager Marschall.
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